Mile Markers

I realized this past week that today marks the one year anniversary that we got my friend, Rich Seigel’s restaurant, La Crepe Nanou, open uptown. We had a skeleton staff because many of the Vietnamese guys had suffered devastating loss from the flood. I ran food, the Paris Hilton job, but also washed dishes. We prided ourselves on having real plates when only 20% of the restaurants were open and using paper. The dishwasher position is the hardest to fill. I washed them all myself on the third day, when the dishwasher broke down. We had about 3 people from the original staff. The rest were friends, like myself, writers, like Eve Trough, from NPR. Mike, who y’all know from Dick and Jennie’s helped us out for a while, along with other cameo appearances by local kitchen celebrities. We had photographers in the kitchen, like Renee Allie who’s photos were included in the NOMA exhibition in May of this year. Patrick who is making his own documentary of his family’s home in MS., which was destroyed. Joe, our utility man from the East who lost everything. One day, Joe just said to me, “you’re for real”. The highest of compliments. And dear Miss Ella, who waded through waste deep water with her mother in the flood and was there, in ankle deep water, washing dishes next to me with her bad knee. All of us had lost something . . . everything.
Much of the wait staff was back, which the customers loved. Melissa wore the gold star for having stayed during the storm and cleaned out the walk-ins while we were all on evacucation. It was nuts. I had no idea what the hell I was doing, but these were my friends who had entertained my ratty little friends late into the night for years. It was payback time. Two or three weeks of duty became five months without blinking.
I was lucky because I worked in the kitchen, where the hardcore camaraderie flourished. I got to wear an apron ! I stole one as a souvenir. Uniquely, I got to spend equal time on the floor. With the apron on, customers assumed I was cooking the food, so I got all the accolades. People gushed with gratefulness at having a familiar place to come home and meet up with their friends and get liquored up and cope. They thanked me, they cried. We saw a few nervous breakdowns, someone peed in their chair, some else got engaged, Ben saved someone from choking, I cut my finger real bad.
At the end of the day, I would fall into bed in my work clothes! If you’ve worked in a kitchen, you know this is a crazy thing to do. But I was cleaning people’s houses out during the day, or cleaning the gutters of Magazine St. or I was at the PRC office and then heading into the restaurant. It’s grueling work. I was so dead at the end of the day. And I posted for y’all too ! And I was hosting the big mainstream media folks in the middle of it all, out of pride for my city. How did I do it? La Crepe saved us too, they fed us. I would have died without the cheese and pate snacks while prepping. Or the filet’s with bernaise sauce. We lived on les pommes frites! We all stayed after work and drank wine together. Geoffrey , who is now suffering through a divorce from his life-long love, is currently working in the test kitchen for the concept restaurant, Dagwood’s. He taught me how to make the crepes, along with lots of other great tips. Customers pined for the fondue, which was missing from the menu. Fondue is not back yet but the french onion soup is there.
Anyway, Gail, who’s story I sent over to the Weather Channel last November, Renee and I are going to the restaurant to eat tonight to mark this great feat. I’m going to bus my own table for old times’ sake.
Many of us have moved on but we’re still tight friends. I am enjoying being back as a professional eater. Patrick is still there on the salad line. Son, one of the original Vietnamese cooks (as in 23 yrs original), is still in the kitchen, he was from day one, back when he had his AK-47 hanging above the back window. Son’s an amazing guy. He has so much energy, he loves to fish. He’s quick to laugh, and he always says, ‘aw! Man!, Shit! when something is very wrong. Recently, his son was shipped to Iraq. We’re all praying for his safe return. He’s a medic.
Son taught us one really funny, Vietnamese (prostitution) phrase, the restaurant kitchen is a man’s world. We still say it with regularity . . . “Love you long time.”
Chest pats to y’all ~ we have come a long way.
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God bless you sweetie. You get it.
I don’t know how to response except, for a very humble, nod.
It was an amazing experience. It goes on here, day in and, day out, like it’s easy. That, I guess, is the goal. None of the restaurant folk even realized it was a year, they were really happy we came to make a fuss and remind them of their accomplishment! Which we did, very well.
Someone even sent us flowers to our table. We distributed hugs throughout and took many photos. Which we couldn’t dream of doing while working. We’d be far too exhausted.
Great night Lauri!!! So much has happened since, I can hardly believe that was only a year ago, but oh, those were the sweet times since the storm–we had a purpose and that was great.
My dear sweet Lauri, keep on writing, observing, and telling our stories to all the world. I love you, and if it had’nt been for Katrina we would still spend our holiday meals together but never share the closeness we do now! Thanks for all you do for our city and our psyche. PS Little Geoffrey ate his to go pommes frittes in bed last night, he was waiting up for me! Love you long time!!!!!! Gayle
Yet another superlative post, Laureen. I had my first post-K meal at Crepe just this past Friday - it’s an amazing place, where the mussels taste better every time and one of my favorite paintings in New Orleans is always there to greet me. I’m so glad they were able to keep it going - Uptown wouldn’t be the same without Crepe.
I am writing from Houston, Texas where I vicariously experienced the opening of Le Crepe Nanou. My brother Geoffrey and sister Gayle were both first responders and helped feed Entergy emergency workers almoste immediately after the storm. Gayle’s 14 year old son, also named Geoffrey after our brother, came to live with me and attend Strake Jesuit here in Texas.Those first months were hard on everyone but the comraderie and loyalty exhibited by that opening crew was and still is an inspiration to us all. It will be awhile before New Orleans resembles the city we grew up in but thanks to the strength, faith and tenacity of that team at Le Crepe Nanou there is still one small part of it that we when we step through the velvet curtains…it still looks and smells the same!!!
Laureen,
i just live a block away..let’s have lunch!
thank you for yet another great post!
I used to live right across Upperline from there. The big tan house next to Liberto’s cleaners on Prytania. I never went because I was always broke.
I miss my old apartment. That is a really cool neighborhood. One day, when unicorns and jesus come back, I’ll have enough money to move back to that part of town. Maybe I’ll move my restaurant there. We only serve lactose intollerant warm milk and grape-nuts, sauteed in one lb. blocks of gov’ment cheese. You think it will be a success?
One year ago, sleeping on the floor in Austin wondering if the mold has eaten my house yet..Glad to be back in New Orleans.